Saturday, February 28, 2015
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Friday, February 27, 2015
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Tiki 26 Launched in the Channel Islands
Just a little over a month ago I posted photos here of Philip Le Maitres recently completed Wharram Tiki 26 - the same design I am currently building for my own use. Phil has since launched his boat, and yesterday sent me these photos of Scooby taken on launch day. He said everything about the first assembly of the demountable catamaran went like clockwork and was completed in two hours. His launching location has a much greater tide range than my home waters here on the Gulf of Mexico. Here the boat is assembled on the hard and waiting for the returning tide.
The happy owner/builder with his latest creation. Phil has also built a Tiki 21 and a Tiki 31. He completed this Tiki 26 in less than a year.
A couple of nice shots from above with the catamaran afloat. When he sent me these photos yesterday, he had yet to test the boat under sail, but said that it motored easily at 7 knot at just one third throttle on the Yamaha 8 hp, 4-stroke outboard. Ill look forward to hearing sailing reports from him soon, as he has launched just in time for a full season of good sailing ahead, and has chosen a fantastic design to build and sail. Congratulations, Phil! I hope Scooby meets all your expectations and more.
Thursday, February 26, 2015
More on External Chine Logs
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| Phil Bolgers Otter II design, showing her external chine logs |
Yes but... Poohsticks is design 10-5-57, ie from the early numbering sytem Bolger used (most of that series originals and other early independent Bolger work destroyed in an unfortunate office fire.) Its almost certain the Poohsticks design was completed in 1957. The date of the write-up about it is not clear to me, but the thinking behind it may well be contemporaneous with its design.
The Light Dory Type V is from the later adopted numbering system, post fire, and denoted as design #265 [there are eight types of Bolger light dory (counting the larger ones #526, #555) as modified from #140 (types -1 to -6) and on; #140-4 being the Orrell famed "Gloucester Gull" version, and #140-6 Paysons "Gloucester Light Dory"].
Dynamite Payson first built a #140-4 in 1967 (Bolger drew #140-6 for Paysons plans sales business much later in the 1970s due to issues with Orrell and proprietry rights. However, what goes around... later, upon Orrells death, Payson successfully purchased all Orrell plan rights, and passed most of the Bolger blueprints/rights back to Bolger!). The Type V, #265, the only one with external chine logs was certainly designed around 1973 specifically for publication in "Small Boats."
Now, to our points of difference: if, as you seem to imply, the 1957 Bolger conjecture (with his obvious caveat) that a chine log "reduces eddying along under the chine by carrying the side flow aft......" is evidence of, as you say, a "Phil Bolger theory that if the hull was properly shaped, an external chine log may reduce drag", then, repectfully, I must disagree for the reasons that follow.
First, in my view its a bit too much of a stretch to turn a Bolger conjecture into a Bolger theory. Bolger raised so many conjectures throughout his career, sometimes with wry humour, often with a caveat as here, yet when he stated his theory in any way he was quite serious, and unreservedly adamant (a good example is at page 50 of "Small Boats" "My flow theory accounts for this...")
Second, sixteen years elapse between Poohsticks and the Light Dory Type V, by which time clearly Bolger is not stating an exterior chine log reduces drag, rather that he merely thinks it may not add to it.
Third, a further nine years later still, in 1982, of the projecting edge of the bottom of Lions Paw #404 ("30-ODD BOATS", p97), which is an excrescence effectively the same as an external chine log, Bolger stated that it "doesnt seem to create much added drag in a hull of these proportions". Unlike Poohsticks, or LDT V, the Lions Paw hull is certainly shaped according to his theory as applicable to sharpies to minimise eddying flow at the chine, ie to minimise drag, yet overall the chine excrescence does result in added drag despite it somewhat fencing cross chine flow (in this design it is tolerated for other reasons).
Fourth, well, admittedly not a reason carrying much weight, but allegedly the LDT Type VI actually is a bit faster than the LDT Type V. There is more going on in the way of design modifications to produce the Type V than just the external chine logs, but perhaps the fact is that they dont help either? (Type VIs have been built with external chine logs too. As far as I know theres been no comparison made with a standard VI.)
best to you
Graeme
interrogate the bolger chart,
every phrase, every mark...
Having read what Graeme has written in this piece and in his previous comment, I have to agree that my statement about Phil Bolger having a theory that external chine logs may reduce drag on a properly designed sharpie hull was overstretching the mark. However, he did imply that the increase in drag, if any, was minor - certainly far less than most people would think intuitively. If you look at my previous post, you will see a list of practical advantages to be gained from using external chine logs.
All of this has been generated by a post I wrote about a Jim Michalak-designed boat. My aim was to inform those people who seem to have a prejudice against external chine logs. Perhaps I was not careful enough with my phrasing, but the practical advantages remain. It is interesting that the people who are horrified by external chine logs dont raise any objections to external keel battens, bilge runners, or lapstrake planking...
Regarding Graemes discussion about dates of design and of publication, I have this quote from a re-publication of the books, "Small Boats" and "The Folding Schooner".
The combination book was called "Bolger Boats" I think (I dont have a copy) and in the preface (Dec 1982) he said, "...What I wrote in these two books, as opposed to what I drew, leaves me fairly contented. Draw you own conclusions from that."
Regardless of the resistance argument, Phil Bolger continued using external chine logs on designs for a very long time.
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| Birdwatcher with her external chine logs (sorry, I dont have a picture credit and will remove it if anybody is concerned) |
Design 27 Stormy Weather
Stormy Weather was tank tested at the Stevens Institute in a swimming pool, even before the official towing tank was open. She was an improvement the Dorade design. Built by Henry Nevins of City Island, New York, she was launched in 1934.
LWL 39-9"
Beam 12-6"
Draft 7-11"
Displacement 44,800 lbs
Sail Area 1,332 sq ft
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Thursday, February 19, 2015
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Wednesday, February 4, 2015
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Heres a classically styled planing motoryacht of 61 overall, design 2418. Reminiscent of Sparkman & Stephens designed Burgers, shes a head-turner. Powered by twin Yanmars turning conventional props, she is constructed of wood using Epoxy cold-molded construction methods.
Tuesday, February 3, 2015
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Design 1226 Northern Light
This handsome centerboarder was built by Abeking & Rasmussen of Germany. She was launched in 1956, constructed of wood using very typical S&S specifications: white oak for framing, double planked of mahogany over cedar and silicon bronze for fasteners.
Here are the plans.
LOA 42-9"
LWL 29-6"
Beam 11-9"
Draft 4-3"
Displacement 22,400 lbs
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Sail Area 847 sq ft
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Models in the Madrid Naval Museum Part II
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Champantain(19th C.), Chinesecoast guard vessel, generally used to pursue opium smugglers (Ive never come across this name for a vessel type. I wonder if theres a different term in English.) |
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| (another shot of the champantain in the previous photo. She looks speedy, as a contraband patrol boat should.) |
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Junk Keying(19th C.), Two models of junks similar to the Keying, the first Chinese vessel to sail from Hong Kong to London (The trip was via Cape of Good Hope and USA, in 1846-48. See the Wikipedia article for more.) |
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| (the stern of the junk on the right of the previous photo) |
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Chinesefunerary offering (17th C.) (Just as Chinese grave goods often depicted the happy home and residents of deceased lands-people, so too did boat dwellers depict their homes in goods buried with loved ones) |
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Sampantanka(19th C.), River vessel for passenger carriage and selling merchandise (i.e., a sampan. The model wasnt specifically identified as Chinese, but Im pretty confident that it is) |
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| Lorcha (19th C.), Chinese; used for cabotage and piracy. (Cabotage is coastal cargo carriage. This one is definitely a pirate. If you click to enlarge, youll see cannon in the bow and stern, and the rowers are protected by round shields, as in the old, inaccurate illustrations of Viking ships.) |
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"House of Flowers" (18th C.), Chinesepleasure vessel (model appears to be made of ivory. The detail carving is lovely and intricate.) |
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| (closeup of the vessel "House of Flowers," in previous photo) |
Kruger Sea Wind Canoe
The Kruger Sea Wind was designed by the late Verlen Kruger - a product of more than a 100.000 miles of paddling experience (more than any other man in history) and was his ultimate expedition boat after more than 40 prototypes.
Unlike a sea kayak, the Kruger Sea Wind has a long, open cockpit and a comfortable seat that adjusts up and down to suit conditions and type and length of paddle being used. With its high peaked decks and raised coaming, its a dry ride in all but the worst conditions and when needed there is a custom fitted waterproof fabric spray deck to seal the cockpit completely. At 172" long with 28" of beam, the boat has a lot more volume than the typical touring sea kayak as well. With no bulkheads or hatches, gear can be shoved fore and aft under the decks in large dry bags. The seat can be quickly removed to clear the cockpit floor for sleeping aboard, if necessary.
Ive always wanted to try one of these Kruger-designed canoes since back in the 1980s when I was planning my own big kayak trips that were partly inspired by Verlen Krugers exploits, particularly his 28,000-mile Ultimate Canoe Challenge and his 20,000-mile Two-Continent Canoe Expedition:
While I still like sea kayaks and feel that they are the most seaworthy small boats available, particularly for nasty surf conditions and the like, the Kruger Sea Wind would have many advantages on trips like my journey from the lakes of Canada down the Mississippi River. For one, its much easier to portage than a kayak, with a special portage yoke built into the bottom of the seat, that can be quickly deployed by flipping it upside down in its rack. Then, its easier to quickly get in and out of than a kayak, useful for pulling over shoals, logs and other obstacles and landing on muddy riverbanks. It can carry much more in the way of gear and supplies, allowing you to easily travel a month between resupply. And finally, its more comfortable than a kayak, with room to move around and change position, rather than being shoehorned into a narrow cockpit with no options. The long cockpit also allows for setting up a camera tripod in front of the paddling position - great for wildlife photography - especially from a stable platform like this boat is. Its also easier to access camera gear, change lenses, etc. than in a kayak. Most of the video clip at the end of this post was filmed with my Nikon V1 on the tripod in front of me as I paddled.
The main reason I waited so long to try one of these boats was price and availability. All Kruger Sea Winds are custom-built one at a time by Mark Przedwojewski, who learned the craft directly from Verlen. And all are super-strong lay-ups of 10 layers of Kevlar, making for a lightweight, yet almost indestructible boat. A new Sea Wind will set you back around $5500 with no accessories such as the spray deck. Every once in awhile, a used one does show up, but most owners keep their Krugers for life. Mine recently came up for sale by a friend of the prior owner, after she passed away last year. I snatched it up as soon as I found the ad on a paddling classified site, then drove to Minneapolis, Minnesota to pick it up. Getting it used, I saved a good deal and got the spray deck, bimini top and cockpit cover. Its got a few character scratches and dings, but its Kruger and these boats are built to be paddled, not looked at. Still, it does look good to my eyes anyway, even if its not perfect. I really love the lines of the hull and decks. It is certainly one slippery boat, and moves through the water with less effort than any canoe Ive paddled.
Heres a short video I put together from a recent three-day paddling and camping trip with Ernest Herndon on Bay Springs Lake, which is part of the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway in north Mississippi. Ernest was paddling my Necky Tesla sea kayak most of the time while I put the Kruger through its paces. He shot the scenes of me paddling the Kruger from the bank during a short break, while the rest was shot from the cockpit while I paddled:
To learn more about these fantastic boats, visit Kruger Canoes. To read the Verlen Kruger story, check out the book: All Things Are Possible: The Verlen Kruger Story: 100,000 Miles by Canoe. Look for updates here too as I try this boat out in a variety of conditions and environments. Im still in the process of getting it set up for travel and thinking about where I might like to take it.
Monday, February 2, 2015
I started the galley cabinets
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The galley layout is basically a "U" shape. On the bulkhead wall that separates the raised pilot house from the salon is where the refrigerator will reside next to the engine room exhaust/intake chimney. Above the refrigerator is a 30" wall cabinet that will house a microwave oven. Next to the microwave oven will be a 36" double door wall cabinet with shelves. Below the 36" wall cabinet is a 15" base cabinet with a drawer and door. On the port wall of the layout is where the LP range will reside. I built a cabinet for the range to sit upon, and also notched out the back of the cabinet so my 6" air conditioning duct for the wheel house can sneak past. I was also able to get two small shelves in the range cabinet that will have a single door front over. Because of needing space to get the fridge in and out of the galley, I had to build two 7" fillers along each side of the range. Along with the range and the two 7" filler pieces, the width of the galley from the fridge to the other cabinets is 32". Im going to build two drawers on their side in those fillers ( 4" drawers) for a spice rack on one side and hanging utensils on the other. Ill get in to more detail once I start finishing the cabinets. Continuing around the "U", is where the sink base will reside. I built a 36" sink base to accommodate a home size double bowl sink. It was important to us to have a large sink and its a detail all will appreciate. Next to the sink base is an 18" base cabinet with three large drawers.
My method of building the galley cabinets are to build a box, attach a face frame, then build style and rail raised panel doors. On other parts of the boat, I saved time, money, and space by making some of the cabinets "built in" which utilizes part of the hull as the cabinet "box". Because the wheel house and salon are still sitting in my barn, building cabinets as boxes is the only practical method.
Each box is built from 3/4" birch plywood. There is only one place where the side of any cabinet will be visible, and that side was made with 3/4" cherry plywood. The backs of the all the cabinets are 1/4 plywood, and I added a 3/4" rail to the top of the base units back, and to the top and bottom of the wall units back. The extra rail is to give me something more substantial than 1/4" material for mounting the units. The tops and bottoms of any cabinet is also 3/4" plywood let into a dado in the sides. The wall units have a top and a bottom, the base units only have a bottom as the counter will make the top. I rabbeted the sides to accept the 1/4" back.
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The face frames are solid cherry and have a width of 2"..jpg)
All the face frames were built using the Kreg pocket screw gizmo. I cant say enough good things about this method of building face frames, and its become my number one choice when applicable. .jpg)
The doors are the style and rail method and because I want a nice looking job, I decided to use a raised panel. I went with a traditional raised panel which is a 15 degree angle. I have an ogee cutter for my shaper, but I wanted something more in tune with what one would find on an older boat, and the 15 degree raised panel suited my thought. I cut the style, rails, and raised panels on my old Delta shaper. Ive posted about the shaper before, and Ill again say that caution is for sure the preferred attitude to have when using this tool. When the panel raising bit that weighs about a pound is spinning at 10,000 rpm, and you need hearing protection from the noise it make, a serious amount of respect quickly builds. When raising the panels, I use the table saw and remove a lot of the waste before starting with the shaper. I take light cuts, and always do the end grain first. The end grain is the hardest material to cut, and in case I have some chipping or a minor blow out, the next cut going with the grain will usually fix any end grain issues. The cutter is carbide, and sharpened to 600 grit so its nice and sharp..jpg)
The shaper has a great device to raise and lower the bit, and along with the micro adjustments on the fence, the level of precision is fantastic. When finished with shaping the panel, I sand it to 220, and give it a light coat of Cherry stain. Having some color on the panel before assembly will help prevent seeing a line at the style and rail joint once the panel starts moving with seasonal humidity and the wood naturally darkens. .jpg)
I expect the Cherry wood to darken five or ten shades once it starts seeing some sun. The natural darkening is one reason I like Cherry. .jpg)
Ive been mocking up some of the structure in the salon. For the galley, I mocked up the bulkhead wall, and the engine room chimney. I also mocked up the ceiling above the fridge. The finished ceiling is going to be a bead board which is 5/8" thick. Using 1/4" plywood for the ceiling is not ideal and makes it hard to get a good scribe joint against the face frame. I left an inch of material to scribe for final fit against the real ceiling. Im being pretty accurate, but Im also giving myself lots of wiggle room in regard to extending face frames past the cabinet boxes in critical areas for plenty of room to scribe and fit to the finished wall and ceiling material once those are installed. Mocking up is not something Ive done in the past, but Its the only way I can do this job. Ive found a few issues during the mock up and was able to easily change some things that would have been a pain to do later down the road.I could have purchased a set of rub collars for the shaper and made the raised panels fit the curve of the ceiling. Im going to deal with the curved ceiling regarding the door fit by making the top rail of the doors fit the ceiling curve. Ill make the upper rail four inches vs my standard two inches and scribe it to fit the ceiling. The other option is to leave the door square and live with the stepped look of the square door against the camber of the ceiling. The different thickness of the curved top rail vs the square lower rail might make it look odd, but I think the overall look will be ok. Well see how it looks in about a week. The three doors you see in the picture above are two for the sink base, and one for the 15" base cabinet next to the fridge.
There is much more to post about the cabinet build, and as I get further along Ill add more detail.
Cheers
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As this craft was
Roof Rafters The cabin takes shape
True they were old and some were a little worse for wear, rotted at the ends or showing signs of termites, but most were quite usable.
This is an awesome diagram with much of what you need to know about roofs in general. Terms youll need for our shantyboat roof are common rafter, ridgeboard, birdsmouth, eave, gable end and gable end stud, ladder, collar tie, and rafter tie (also called a ceiling joist).
I sorted the good rafters from the marginal. The usable but marginal ones I treated with CopperGreen Clear and cut off the bad parts.
Since our shantyboat is smaller than the original chicken coop, I cut the rafters down to size, decreasing the overall length as well as the length of the eaves. I carefully cut the angle where they met in the center and re-cut the angle of the birdsmouth.
I laid them out on the floor of the barn, and used a temporary plywood collar tie (leaving a slot at the top for the ridgeboard) to keep everything from going wonky while I struggled to secure them into place.
With some ridiculously awkward effort, I got the two end rafters up supporting the ridgeboard.
Then one by one, I installed each of the rafter pairs.
Finally, I added a permanent collar tie to each of the inside rafter. I suppose soon I will have to add a ladder to support the gable overhang and a fly rafter.
At the end of the day, for the first time, I was able to see the shape and size and height of this crazy boat.